What is the role of HPMC in cosmetics?

Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) is a nonionic, water-soluble polymer derived from cellulose. It boasts high safety, non-toxicity, and stable chemical properties, making it widely used in the pharmaceutical, building materials, and cosmetics industries. In cosmetics, HPMC is commonly used in skincare, cleansing, and makeup formulations, primarily performing thickening, film-forming, stabilizing, and moisturizing functions.

Thickening and Rheology Control

HPMC dissolves in water to form a transparent or translucent colloidal solution, significantly increasing product viscosity. When used in formulations such as lotions and creams, it optimizes system rheological properties, imparting a desired consistency and smooth application. It also enhances static stability, preventing separation or settling during storage.

Emulsion Stabilization

In emulsions such as lotions and sunscreens, HPMC forms a viscoelastic protective layer at the interface, enhancing the steric barrier between emulsion droplets. This improves emulsion stability, delays phase separation, and extends product shelf life.

Film-Forming and Moisturizing

HPMC forms a breathable film on the skin's surface, reducing water evaporation and helping to maintain skin hydration. While its hygroscopicity is not as strong as stronger humectants like hyaluronic acid, it can still improve skin smoothness and maintain long-lasting moisturization. It also helps evenly disperse sunscreen agents in sunscreen products, enhancing film formation and protection.

Improving Skin Feel and Application Performance

HPMC's light texture prevents stickiness and improves product spreadability and even application. It is suitable for makeup products like foundations and BB creams, as well as personal care products like shampoo and body wash, imparting a soft and smooth after-use feel to skin and hair.

Mildness and Applicability

As a cellulose derivative, HPMC has a mild structure and is low in irritation, making it suitable for use in products for sensitive skin. Its high chemical stability and compatibility allow it to be used in a variety of formulations.

Application Examples

Skin Care: It is used in creams and lotions to provide thickening, moisturizing, and skin feel control. In serums, it acts as a rheology modifier to help stabilize the dispersion of active ingredients.

Makeup: Used in foundations and mascara as a film former and thickener, improving skin adhesion and long-lasting makeup.

Haircare and Cleansing: Used in shampoos and body washes to enhance foam texture and rinseability.

Sunscreen: Assists with sunscreen distribution, enhancing film integrity and protective properties.

HPMC is a functional and safe cosmetic excipient that can effectively adjust product texture, improve stability, and enhance the user experience. With increasing market demand for mild and environmentally friendly ingredients, the application prospects of HPMC in cosmetics are expected to expand further.